Sleep is one of the first things I look at with puppy behaviour. Honestly, even with adult dogs, behaviour adjustment usually starts there.
If you tell me your puppy is extra bitey, full of zoomies and really struggles to relax, my first question is usually: how much are they actually sleeping? Structured naps can literally change your life within a week.
And yes, I really do mean 18–20 hours of sleep in 24 hours for young puppies. Nighttime sleep counts, obviously, otherwise the maths would be impossible. In my experience, maybe 10% of guardians actually get puppy sleep about right. Most people subscribe to “they’ll sleep when they’re tired” and then mistake a wired puppy for an energetic puppy.
That is where things start to unravel.
Why Do Puppies Need So Much Sleep?
Puppies are doing an enormous amount of growing, learning and processing. New home, new people, toilet training, handling, walks, training, play, sounds, smells, social experiences — all of that takes energy.
Sleep is when a lot of that processing happens. Their bodies are growing, their nervous systems are developing and their brains are trying to make sense of everything they have just experienced.
The bit people often miss is that tired puppies do not always look tired. Quite often they look feral. They get mouthier, faster, louder, more frantic and less able to listen. Then we look at that puppy and think, “Wow, they still have loads of energy,” and give them even more play, training or exercise.
Sometimes the puppy does not need more activity. They need sleep.
This is why I take sleep so seriously. Before I start trying to fix biting, zoomies, poor focus or an inability to settle, I want to know whether the dog is actually rested enough to regulate themselves.
How Much Sleep Does Your Puppy Need By Age?
I am not massively rigid about puppy schedules. I care much more about total sleep, regulation and what the puppy in front of me is showing me than whether they have followed a spreadsheet perfectly.
0 – 6 Months
For young puppies, 18–20 hours of sleep per day is a real target. I stand by that strongly.
I do not generally prescribe a rigid “one hour awake, two hours asleep” timetable because very young puppies have bladders, and their bladder is going to dictate quite a lot of their day. They wake, toilet, eat, interact, maybe train or play briefly, then they need help coming back down again.
At 8–10 weeks old, the longest overnight stretch is often around four hours. Some puppies are absolute unicorns and sleep right through much earlier, but that is unusual rather than something I would expect from every puppy.
7 – 12 months
Adolescent puppies can usually stay awake for longer and their sleep needs start to come down, but they still need a lot more rest than many guardians expect. Around 16–18 hours in 24 hours is a useful guide.
This is also an age where people can accidentally create a very spiky day: lots of stimulation, walks, training and play, then sudden long stretches of isolation or inactivity, then back to full intensity again. That pattern can make regulation harder, not easier.
Over 12 Months
As dogs move into young adulthood, sleep usually settles closer to adult levels, often around 14–16 hours across 24 hours, though individuals vary. Larger breeds and dogs still doing a lot of physical or emotional growing may need more.
I still care about sleep here. Quite a lot, actually. If I am looking at behaviour in an adult dog, sleep is usually one of the first pieces of the puzzle I check.
Signs Your Puppy Might Not Be Getting Enough Sleep
I care less about whether your puppy looks sleepy and more about whether they can regulate themselves.
- They get extra bitey, especially later in the day.
- They get huge zoomies and seem unable to stop.
- They struggle to settle even when they are clearly exhausted.
- Training suddenly falls apart and their attention span disappears.
- They have a dramatic evening “witching hour” where everything seems to go up several gears at once.
The witching hour is common, and to a degree it is normal, but I still treat it as information. It tells me the puppy has hit a spike in their day.
I like a puppy’s day to look more like a nice, easy curve than a graph full of giant peaks and troughs. Regulation comes from smoother transitions between activity, connection, independence and rest. If the whole day is feast and famine, the puppy is constantly having to cope with huge swings.
The Feast-And-Famine Problem
This is one of the biggest patterns I see.
Puppy gets huge, intense play and lots of fuss. Then suddenly they are left alone — properly alone, with no transition. Then you come back and it is “OMG PUPPY!” again: fuss, play, intensity, walk, training, go go go. Then back to isolation.
The problem is not that puppies should never have exciting play or never be left alone. They absolutely should experience both. The problem is the lack of transitional support between those states.
You are asking a very young nervous system to go from 100 to zero, then zero to 100, over and over again.
I would much rather see a gentler day. Activity rises, then comes down. We help the puppy decompress. They rest. They wake. We build back up again. That is much easier for a puppy to handle.
How To Help Your Puppy Wind Down
One of the biggest mistakes is expecting a puppy to go from full-send play straight to sleep.
Give them a runway.
My favourite wind-down options are simple: sniff, lick, chew, then sleep. Sniffing activities, licking and appropriate chewing can all help bring the intensity of the moment down and give the puppy something to do while their body catches up.
Think of those activities as transition tools rather than entertainment. We are not trying to squeeze one more enrichment session into the day. We are trying to help the puppy come down a gear.
A crate, playpen or dedicated sleep area can really help here. I am not militant about where a puppy sleeps, but having an obvious, comfortable downtime space often makes switching off much easier.
If your puppy wants to sleep on you or on the sofa, that is also absolutely fine if you are happy with it. I only start to care when that becomes the only way the puppy can sleep and you need them to be able to rest elsewhere too.
Should You Wake a Sleeping Puppy?
Generally? No.
If your puppy is asleep, let them sleep. I would not wake a sleeping puppy just because a rigid schedule says it is time to do something. Their bladder, meals and practical life obviously matter, but sleep is not something I want to interrupt unnecessarily.
Do Puppies Need A Strict Sleep Schedule?
No. Structured naps and a strict timetable are not the same thing.
I absolutely recommend helping puppies nap, but I let the puppy’s bladder dictate a lot when they are very young. The goal is not to run puppyhood like a military operation. The goal is to make sure the puppy gets enough sleep and does not spend the whole day bouncing between overstimulation and exhaustion.
If your puppy naturally settles well and is getting enough rest, brilliant. If they do not, then yes, I would actively build naps into the day.
Common Puppy Sleep Issues
My puppy will not nap: Start by looking at transitions. If you have just finished high-energy play, do not expect instant sleep. Give them a runway with sniffing, licking or chewing, then move into a quiet sleep space.
My puppy is wild in the evening: The classic witching hour is common, but I would look at the whole day. Has it been spiky? Lots of intensity followed by isolation? Not enough naps? The evening chaos is often the end result of what happened in the previous ten hours.
My puppy wakes at night: For very young puppies, this is normal. At 8–10 weeks, a four-hour stretch can be perfectly reasonable. They may need to toilet and then go straight back to sleep.
My puppy suddenly sleeps much more than usual: Growth spurts can make puppies sleepier, but a sudden major change in sleep alongside lethargy, appetite changes, vomiting, diarrhoea, pain or anything else that feels off is a vet conversation.
My puppy barely sleeps at all: If you have genuinely tried creating a calmer routine, structured naps and a suitable sleep environment and your puppy still cannot settle, it is worth speaking to your vet to rule out discomfort or illness.

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FAQ: Puppy Sleep Schedule and Common Issues
Q: How many hours should my puppy sleep in a day?
A: Young puppies should generally be getting around 18–20 hours of sleep in a 24-hour period. Yes, really.
Q: Does nighttime sleep count toward the 18–20 hours?
A: Absolutely. Otherwise it would be basically impossible.
Q: Is it normal for my 8–10 week old puppy to wake in the night?
A: Yes. Around four hours can be a normal longest stretch at that age. Some puppies sleep right through earlier, but they are the exception rather than the rule.
Q: Do I need to force my puppy to nap?
A: I prefer “help them nap.” Some puppies self-regulate beautifully. Plenty do not. If yours gets bitey, zoomy, frantic and cannot switch off, structured naps are absolutely worth trying.
Q: Is it okay if my puppy sleeps on me?
A: Yes, if you are happy with it. I only dislike it when that becomes the only way the puppy can sleep and it is creating a practical problem for you.
Q: Should I wake my puppy to keep them on schedule?
A: Usually, no. Let sleeping puppies lie.
The Bottom Line
If there is one thing I wish more puppy guardians understood, it is that a wired puppy is not necessarily an energetic puppy.
Sometimes the biting, zoomies, frantic play and total inability to listen are not signs that your puppy needs another walk. They are signs that your puppy has gone past tired and needs help coming back down.
Aim for the sleep. Make the day less spiky. Give them a runway into rest. And if your puppy is struggling behaviourally, start with sleep before you start trying to fix everything else.
If you want more help with the whole puppy stage, the Rebarkable Puppy Bundle brings together my puppy training resources in one place.







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